A Word with Marlene Overgaard
Marlene Overgaard is our knit designer. She's a true knit nerd and expert and loves exploring new technologies and colours. She has been a part of MOS MOSH since 2018 and has worked with knitting for more than ten years. We chatted with her about what inspires her work, what makes knit especially fun to work with, how to keep the MOS MOSH DNA in each knit design, and the journey of our popular MMThora knit.
Who is your muse when designing? And what inspires you in your work?
My favourite designer is Ulla Johnson. I love her very feminine universe. Her designs are a big contrast to what I wear myself, but maybe that's why I like her collections so much. It's often a special fabric that inspires me or kickstarts my process. Sometimes, it's a print; other times, it's a special knit texture. But in general, I get very much inspired by fabrics. I love visiting fabric fairs or having visits from fabric suppliers.
What is especially fun when working with knits?
Knit is fun to work with because of the many ways to combine yarns and mix different yarn qualities, like mixing hairy yarn with plain yarn. It's material with endless possibilities. I love textures and have a soft spot for soft, hairy yarn, but I also like the sharp yarn in wool.
How has the journey of knits been? And what are the most popular today?
Knit was a small part of the collection when I started working at MOS MOSH. I think the 100% cashmere program was the biggest knit program when I started at MOS MOSH. Slowly, we have added more and more styles and different qualities. In 2020, I introduced the MMThora v-neck, and it quickly became a very popular style.
What is your creative process? And how do you keep the MOS MOSH DNA in each knit design?
When I start my creative process, I collect all sorts of pictures. My computer desktop is one big mess of pictures. It can be pictures from fashion shows, knit types, patterns, and prints. I've collected a lot of knit cuttings and yarn books over time. I like going through them when I start a new season. Sometimes I see something new and get inspired. I also have a brilliant knit supplier who is a true knit wizard. Every style must have a feminine touch to keep the MOS MOSH DNA. Then a bit of glam or a fresh colour combination.
From yarn to bestseller
The Thora Knit has been a classic staple at MOS MOSH since the spring collection in 2020. But where did it all begin, and how has Thora developed over the years?
When Marlene first designed the knit in two colours for SS20, she had no idea where it would go. Especially the German market loved the soft and fluffy knit from the start, and soon after, it became a key item in future collections. We asked Marlene why she thinks the knit has become so popular, and her response is simple; "It's so lightweight and easy to style. You can wear it casually or dress it up depending on the styles you combine it with, and it's easy to design in many beautiful colours". Thora is spun from a soft mix of alpaca (Suri Alpaca, which is very exclusive, extra soft, and glossier) and wool and designed in half cardigan stitch in top-dyed brush yarn that gives the knit a subtle colour play. "She is kind of a basic, an all-year/every year kind of knit," says Marlene, and a knit she loves to design almost every season in new and beautiful colours and designs.
Marlene has used the same supplier since the beginning because they are competent and very skilled in all kinds of knits and yarn qualities. At MOS MOSH, we believe things have to feel right. We celebrate good craftsmanship; therefore, the relationship with our suppliers is highly valued. According to Marlene, it's an easy and exciting quality to develop, and Thora has now developed into a whole Thora program with hats, scarves, cardigans, and new jumper fits. These have been very positively received.